Japan as I see it now...

With two weeks left, I realize that my image of Japan prior to this term abroad has been slowly shattering. This discovery of Japan began as early as my first few days of arrival in the country; I remember questioning where the traditional Japanese houses were, realizing how convenient everything was, and learning to read beyond what people were saying to uncover what they were not saying. I remember feeling like I wasn't in another country, but rather was in another eerie dimension so similar to America, because I couldn't find differences that I had anticipated. I wondered where is the traditional culture? the highly-advanced technology Japanese is praised for? and the sushi? But, as I continued my stay in Japan, I began to perceive distinct qualities of Japan, as layers of Japanese society began to peel right before my eyes.

Walking down Gotenyama

I am very appreciative of my experience in Japan for it truly awakened me up from an idea of Japan that many people unfortunately still maintain. The Japan today is progressively modern with advanced technology, such as their multi-task-able keitai, and busy business and shopping streets; sometimes you can forget you are in Japan, because it feels so much like any other modern city. It is distinct in its firm grasp on its historical traditions, as old-fashioned Japanese homes can still be seen in neighborhoods and shrines and castles are located all throughout Japan. Apart from these observations, I have to realize that one thing that truly distinguishes Japan from other countries is the Japanese people. Through their actions, attitudes, and values, I have come to understand the small details of daily Japanese life. For example, sales-clerks speak in a high-pitched voice out of respect for the customer. Also, the seriousness of a late train exemplifies Japanese people's social and professional ethics. My interactions with Japanese people of all ages have made me realize that Japan culture, like another other society, is defined by the people within it.

Keihan Train

Although, I don't know when and if I will ever return to Japan, I am truly glad that I have visited this country. As I get ready to leave this Japan, I can no longer recollect my initial ideas of Japan very well, as my knowledge of Japan is full of everything I have seen and experienced. Especially, as an visual anthropologist, I have been able to explore and question Japan on a greater level. Furthermore, I know that my increased knowledge of the powers of visuals can be used in examining other cultures; hence, I hope Japan to be my first stop on my journey of traveling with my camera. For now, I will say my goodbye to Japan.

Temple, with Tokyo Tower in the back

Working Hard & Playing Hard

During my few trips to the Gaidai University library, I have noticed students fast asleep on the tables, chairs, and sofas. While these sleeping sessions are universal pastime of all students, I have come to realize that taking naps is a common activity in Japan, as you can easily find many people fast asleep on trains, in Starbucks, and even by store-fronts. Hence, I want to explore and question the effects of Japan as a "gambaru-culture."

If you look past the railings, you can see a man sleeping; probably passed out from a night of drinking.
Taken in Shinjuku, Tokyo.

 The deep-rooted gambaru ideals motivate Japanese people. From young ages, Japanese people are placed under great societal pressures to do well and succeed with long days at school followed by cram school sessions and topped off with part-time jobs. After partial or full completion of their education, they are placed into various jobs within society, and the idea of "gambaru" is expected to be applied to everything that they attempt. Of course, like any society, some jobs are more advantageous than others, but in Japan, everyone is constantly rushing to their destinations, trying to be on time, and doing their best, ganbatte-ing. While my friend Kaylee's father, a Keihan bus driver, wakes up around 4am in the morning to start the first bus rounds, my host father, a high positioned businessman in his company, may not be out as early, but is always working so late that he has to catch the last train. These overtiring daily lives not only explain to me the reasons behind the many people fast asleep on trains but also the large amount of entertainment outlets available in Japan.

Busy streets of Namba, Osaka.

You don't need to walk into Umeda or Namba to find a Pachinkos or any other places to spend time leisurely. Entertainment outlets are very popular in Japan, and perhaps it a result of the stressful daily routines. On weekends and holidays, the trains and streets of popular areas are always packed with young people and families out enjoying their day-off together or shopping. It seems that the constant gambaru attitude creates a need to find ways to indulge, whether it is through shopping or other ways to appreciate or enjoy their jobs. Shopping may offer temporary comfort through material pleasures, almost as a way to reward themselves. Also, places such as Pachinkos, karaoke bars, and even host and hostess clubs, are places of rest from their daily obligations; hostess clubs seemingly make jobs more bearable as company meetings would be held in such places.

Take your pick of entertainment.
Taken in Namba, Osaka.

The existence and popularity of these and many other forms of entertainment in Japan seem to suggest that there is great deal of pressure in upholding the gambaru ideals of Japanese society. Furthermore, it seems to me that working hard and playing hard have become so deeply entwined and cyclical in Japan that it is hard to determine which enables the other...

Modern with a Hint of History

Namba, Osaka at Night

Foreigners, such as myself come to Japan because we are each drawn to various aspects of Japan, be it the traditional style houses with zen gardens and tatami mats of older Japan, or the array of colorful lights from buildings in the underground shopping areas that resemble Times Square, New York. While we enjoy the coexistence of Japan's new and old customs and society, the worry of traditional Japanese culture "nearing extinction" prompts us to question how deeply entwined Japan has become with its modern counterparts, despite efforts to preserve older Japanese culture. 

Garden in Kyoto Imperial Palace

Japan has always held great pride in its history and customs, but its assimilation into the modern world is slowly creating a dominantly modern society within Japan. Among other countries, Japan is probably one of the few with bits of its historical aspects still present amidst the modern cities. Next to railroad tracks or beyond and between apartment buildings lie traditional Japanese houses, home to generations of families. Castles, temples and shrines still exist and offer a glimpse into Japan's past, through a museum-like experience.

Kyoto Imperial Palace

Nevertheless, as a thriving country in the modern world, Japan has made compromises between older customs and modern lifestyles. Samurais, for one, no longer roam Japan, rather it's salarymen working in offices, women running small shops, and youths doing part-time jobs, as they are the ones to uphold the economy in the modern Japan. Furthermore, many aspects of modern Japanese lifestyle are no longer unique to Japan. Perhaps every now and then, you can catch a glimpse of unique Japanese culture, such as a person in a kimono or a yukata, but that is no longer much of a norm in everyday life.

Perhaps this modern Japan is inevitable, but I appreciate Japan for its balancing act of staying updated with ideas coming in from all over the world while maintaining bits and piece of its past, which are easily accessible.

Osaka from a Ferris Wheel

Upholding Traditions through まつり (matsuri)

As the music cues, the group members of the Danjiri start to tug the ropes to get the shrine moving.

"Wow... How do they have the energy and strength to pull such a heavy cart in this hot weather?" was one of my earliest thoughts as I observed the 50-80 people tugging at a coarse rope, which was the only tool used to move the 4 ton shrine. As I watched people of all ages participating in the Danjiri festival, my ethnocentric gaijin surfaces for a moment and my prior knowledge of American festivals clouded my understanding of the nature of matsuri.

Throughout Japan, you can find many lingering old practices co-existing with the modern Japan, and among them are matsuri, which are tightly held onto by Japanese people. Most matsuri have an intense history and tradition in the ways in which they are carried out; often they are honoring a certain custom that has been upheld for decades and even centuries. The Kishiwada Danjiri matsuri I attended, began in the 18th century and was initially intended as a presentation to a god for good harvest, but continues to live on today, serving as a spirit of the older times. Some festivals have a much longer history, like the Kurama Fire Festival in Kyoto; its roots trace as far back as the year, 940, when the emperor relocated a shrine in hopes of peace. When they did receive peace, this tradition of celebrating the shrine with torches of fire was started and continues well into today. 

People admire the fire from a far with their eyes and even zoomed-in camera lenses. 

Perhaps, the thing that shocks me the most about these festivals is the amount of participation and energy of the people in their determination to carry out these sacred ancient traditions. In America, many of our festivals are a colorful display of costumes, mechanical floats, and people sitting in or walking alongside the float. If you have ever seen a Thanksgiving Parade in New York City, you will know that festivals are highly appealing and entertaining to the spectators, who are anxious to see what the next balloon float character will be. In Japan, however, it seems that the people who enjoy the festival the most are the ones involved in the festival, as spectators can easily be tired out from watching and listening to the restless movements and shouts. Furthermore, matsuri are more for the people in the festival than the spectators, who, are nonetheless, more than welcome to observe. 

Balloon of Garfield during Macy's 2004 Thanksgiving Parade.
Borrowed from: http://www.bridgeandtunnelclub.com/bigmap/citywide/thanksgivingparade/index.htm

As Japan attempts to maintain age old customs, festivals have become a way of keeping alive some traditional values and practices, which Japanese are not ready to relinquish. Although meaning "festival" in english, matsuri cannot be equivalent to many festivals elsewhere as it reflects a distinct way in which Japanese people attempt to uphold and protect their history. 

Thanking the leaders of the Danjiri group by presenting them gifts; illustrates that the festival is  a celebration for the group.

If you would like more information on the Kurama Fire Festival, please visit this site: Kurama Festival

Reality vs. Staged

Two distinctively different photographers, both Annie Leibovitz and James Nachtwey are inspirational in their work. Annie Leibovitz is constantly capturing the most perfect and beautiful picture with elaborate  costumes and stages. She knows exactly what will make her pictures strikingly remarkable, and even emphasizes the importance of editing the photos to bring out the qualities of a scene. Although her work is mainly of celebrities, Leibovitz is able to offer a sort of magical experience through her images. Nachtwey, however, takes a less glamorous approach, but his photos still leave a lasting impression on the viewer. His photos are constantly taken as he sees the subject, raw and without any make-up, and completed with minimal edits. Nevertheless, Nachtwey grips the viewers' attention through the grotesque, heart-wrenching and vivid images of war and other malices in the world. Perhaps, it is their differences which emphasize the goals and methodologies of photography, which can also be relevant to anthropology.

Annie Leibovitz's photo of Karlie Kloss for Vogue Magazine June 2009. The colors on this photo is just so stunning.
(Borrowed from http://community.livejournal.com/ru_glamour/3231182.html)

James Nachtwey 2009 in Congo. This photo speaks so much about war's impact on children without even showing a full picture of an adult.
(Borrowed from: http://www.time.com/time/photogallery/0,29307,1878837_1844467,00.html)

Through their work, Leibovitz and Nachtwey illustrate the importance of photographs in representing an idea, a person, a event, and even a society. Leibovitz believes that a photo must truly bring out the person and so she gets to know the individual and incorporates certain objects and events of relevance to the person into their photograph. Similarly, in visual anthropology, we want to take a portrait that truly shouts the traits that we want to express of the individual without having to describe the photo, hence we also get to know our subjects before creating a photo of them. Nachtwey also illustrates a similar point as he spends some time with subjects (such as the one-legged and one-armed man) before he starts to document their lives. Similar to anthropological methodologies, Nachtwey and Leibovitz both believe that a mutual relationship of acceptance is the most basic foundation for an accurate representation of subjects. This relationship of acceptance is crucial for anthropologists for a couple of reasons. For one, this relationship will prevent any unwanted invasion of privacy, as we constantly want to respect and protect our subjects. Another reason is that it allows the subjects to become more comfortable with the photographers to the degree that their most natural acts can be recorded. Leibovitz was known for being able to blend in with her subjects and become unnoticed even with her camera in hand. Nachtwey was also able to capture photos with subjects in action because he was able to have his subjects ignore his presence. Such skills are truly important, as anthropologists want the most natural scene. Hence, whether it's expressing them on photo or through words, both photographers and anthropologists come together in their desire for the truth.

James Nachtwey during the Chechnya War 1989. Another image that leaves you in contemplation.
(Borrowed from http://picsicio.us/keyword/james%20nachtwey%20photos/)

Annie Leibovitz's collection of Alice in Wonderland photos with model Natalia Vodianova 2010. The set-up of this scene is amazing with the differences in scales of sizes.
(Borrowed from http://inspiremeplease.wordpress.com/2009/03/16/getting-to-big-for-the-dollhouse-alice/)

日本のお母さん

“你好吗" was among one of the many languages Okasan greeted me with during our first meeting. That was my first sample of her many skills and capabilities. As I got to know her, she helped me develop a deeper understanding of Japanese culture and society through her daily life.

Okasan has become proof to me that Japanese culture is starting to change and women are becoming capable, independent and even major contributors to society. While she considers herself a "homemaker," she has accomplished much more than taking care of a home; even though her family are all working overseas, Okasan chose to stay in Japan to maintain their home, lead her own life, and contribute to her community. Most women of Okasan's status, would be able to relax, travel, and enjoy life, but Okasan tells me that she has no time for such things. She isとてもいそかしい with volunteering and attending meetings to find solutions for various problems in the neighborhood; she has participated in various events from campaigning for child safety to simply establishing a cleaner way to recycle and dispose of waste. Amidst her involvement in the neighborhood, she has also worked into her daily routine of going to the gym, doing household chores, and taking care of a host-student. Even when she is tired, she is never the one to complain, as she will still smile a whole-hearted smile and have more energy than me for our daily chats at the end of the day. 

Through my interactions with my Okasan I am reminded that assumptions of people from one cultural group do not necessary stand true and have to exist. While some of my Okasan's traits are well shared among other Japanese people, such as her bright personality, which accentuates Japanese people's spirit of 元気-ness and eagerness to help others, her individual characteristics make it difficult to generalize everyone. I am sure not all Japanese people or women are like my Okasan, as the lifestyles that they lead, decisions that they make, and perspectives that they have vary. For instance, not all Japanese people balance her type of schedule at her age, or can speak Chinese quite fluently along with english and some Thai. Hence, my Okasan as a Japanese person, woman, and mother is both her own individual and a part of the Japanese whole. While she is just one part of the many faces of Japanese society, she represents to me a big and positive part of Japanese culture. 

Different Corner of the City

On my way to (こぜんじえき) Kozenji Eki 

Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning, I would set out around 7:45 to catch my 8:10 train at こぜんじえき. At this time of the day, I can see the narrow streets come alive and crowded with quick footsteps from some and leisurely strolls from others, accompanied by a great deal of chatter from students of all ages. The special presence of the students undeniably contributes something different to this otherwise peaceful town, as adults would give the sidewalk to the students and walk on the road. These mornings allow me to capture a different type of life in the otherwise quiet small neighborhood outside of Hirakata Shi, which I have always perceived as the center of Hirakata.

This 7-Eleven is perhaps the most frequently visited shop in the neighborhood.

In the neighborhood, residences alternate between western houses, traditional Japanese homes, one room and luxury "mansions," all of various shapes and sizes, each displaying a bit of the affluence of the household. As I exit out of my residential neighborhood and onto the roads leading to the station, my view changes to a continuous street with old and new houses facing each other, with an occasional small business store tucked between them. In such a highly residential area, locals do not seem to thrive on the small businesses as I have witnessed few enter the dry cleaners, sake store, and small supermarket; although students will linger outside the 7-eleven. The most popular business in the area might just be the elementary, middle, and high school in the area, whose students add a more lively touch to the area. Nevertheless, the peacefulness of the neighborhood seems to be positive quality of the area as it allows residents to live comfortably away from the noise and busy-ness of the city; the energy from the students seem to balance everything out just right. 

Typical residences along the side of the street.